Continued from Part One

Pulley buttons removed


Next remove the screws from the pulley buttons. Getting the cover off was a bit challenging, as they are flush with the heel captivator. I knocked the captivator against my kitchen counted a few times, until there was enough to grab with a fingernail. Once the front is off, you can pop the pulley out the back side.
When everything is disassembled, it’s not a bad time to clean it all. I did that as I went.


New cable


Take a new cable and thread it through the top hole in the shell.


Loop for the pulley button


Run the cable into the pulley hole and back out on the bottom side leaving a loop inside the heel captivator.


Inserting the back side of the pulley button


Place the pulley into the loop and pull the end of the cable to seat the pulley. Replace the pulley button cover and screw.

Cable run back through the shell


Run the end of the cable back through the shell and into the cable slot.

Cables run through the new cable clamp


Place the new cable clamp in the shell and run each cable though the clamp. Adjust the cables, tighten the cable clamp and seat it back into the boot.


The reassebled boots


With the straps reassembled, these boots are ready to go try on Lily.

 

WordPress is croaking on the image laden post, so I’ve cut it into part one and part two.

I traded a pair of size 0 Renegades for a pair of size 1. The 1s were too large for Lily. The cable clamps turned out to be stripped or jammed. Whichever it was didn’t matter. I couldn’t adjust them. The only way to fix it was to replace the clamps and cables. I searched the Renegade site and the web for instructions, but found nothing. So I just went for it, taking photos along the way. I thought that it would be worthwhile to post this How To.

The tools I used


After several trips to the tool chest, these are the tools I used: flat screwdriver for prying the cable clamp out, phillips screwdriver for the pulley buttons, wire cutters, pliers (a smaller standard pair of pliers would have been a better choice.), and the tiny allen wrench for the cable clamp, of course!


The spart parts


Here are the new cables and cable clamps ready to go.


Boot- cleaned with the heel captivator liner removed.


The liner in the heel captivator needs to be removed. You can do this now or after the next step. I also found that it was easier to remove all the straps at this point.


The first cable cut off


Cut the cables between the heel captivator and the shell. If your cables are just frayed and can be removed by loosening the cable clamp, you can do that instead.


The shell with all the cables and straps removed.


The next step is to remove the clamp. Prying it out can be challenging. Newer clamps have a small hole on the front. It allows you to use the allen wrench to lever the clamp, exposing the screws. Mine were older and didn’t have that nifty feature.


Cable clamp pried out showing the adjustment screws (and mud).


Once I had the cable clamp out enough to grab it with my pliers, I just pulled it out. It did look like it was ripping the boot where the cables run though, but it only stretched. No real damage was done.


Cable clamp with stuck cables removed.


Success! But look at all the mud that had accumulated under there…


On to Part Two!